![]() ![]() So you can definitely have better drive manners, and as long as you work with it, eventually with tuning mechanical, initial, and vac advance, you can find the sweep spot for a good idle as well. Especially in cruise situations when engine load, vacuum, and fuel mixture fluctuates, having the vac advance working right in these situations will aide to overall driveability. From there, you set initial to the engines liking, and to add the icing on the cake, adjust the vac advance up to get things further ahead. You have just got to get an ajdustable can that deploys properly at idle. What this is telling you is that your engine does in fact like more timing at idle. It wasnt working right, so you removed the vac and added in more initial for better results. As you stated you had less initial and a good amount of vac advance. ![]() This is why you wanna get that vac advance working properly. My carb (Carter AFB 3460) is from a low hp '63 327 corvette.Ĭan I get that to GO? * * * '56 210 HT * * * '56 BelAir HT * * * I understand the differences in each, and some people have found one, the other, or both appropriate for their situation. unless I'm misunderstanding something strokersix, I have about 6-7" vacuum at idle(in-gear), but have around 17-18" at cruising speed.Īlso, the reading I've done says that manifold vac is more appropriate than ported vac for the vacuum advance. You might consider this approach if you really need less advance at idle. I think I've heard this called "ported vacuum". I think the main reason for this is to increase idle exhaust temp for reduced hydrocarbon emissions but I don't know that for sure. Some carbs, Qjet for example, have a different vacuum port for the vacuum advance that shuts off vacuum advance at idle. ![]() Therefore using manifold pressure as your vacuum canister source you will have the most vacuum advance at idle. You should have the lowest manifold pressure (most vacuum) at idle. ![]()
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